Stillness Between the Frames: A Day Trip Through Carmel and Big Sur

Winding through 17 mile drive, it felt like a moody autumn morning as the fog blanketed the eucalyptus trees above us. I turned 32 a few days prior and had been excitedly waiting for this day to come. This summer has felt overwhelmingly busy with days being packed with life and a job change for my husband we’re all still adjusting to. I was needing some time to sit in the sand and feel peace as the waves crashed onto the shore. Of course being a girl who has adventure running through her veins, I had to explore a little bit too.

As the fog lifted, we found ourselves on a little beach where balance rocks were stacked up all around, a subtle reminder that I was in need of my own balance within. I took a deep breath as the pacific ocean numbed my toes, it’s white foam washing over my feet. I came back into awareness and chuckled as I turned around and saw my husband popping the kelp on the beach behind me with childlike amusement. We continued on and walked along a path as the birds flew in a synchronized line with their reflection painted in the water below and the pink coastal flowers offered a pop of color against the grey skies. This place already feels like peace.

After our arrival, we found ourselves a little hungry and in need of some coffee. As we meandered the story book streets, the smell of fireplaces filled the air, making me long for those cozy autumn days. We stopped at Carmel Bakery, a favorite of ours and grabbed some delicious baked goods, savoring them while people watching at a park right up the street. A mooching seagull waiting for someone to drop him something and a curious squirrel bouncing around the park, being entertainment of their own.

On our way out, we happened upon another coffee spot that doubled as a bike shop called Mad Dogs and Englishmen( you can never really have too much coffee). They had electric bikes available for rent that had little buggies attached for your dog, hence the clever name. We grabbed our drinks - for my husband a turmeric ginger chai and for me a more earthy matcha, sipping on them as Carmel disappeared in the background and the coastal cliffs of Big Sur came into view. We headed towards Mccway Falls, but were quickly reminded how much of an impact over tourism has as we got stuck in a long line of traffic - tourists trying to find a parking spot for Point Lobos State Park.

We were taking a gamble in going to the falls during more peak hours, something that a seasoned traveler knows better than to do. But the fog was sitting low early in the morning and we were hoping to get a clear view of the falls. As we drove farther along the coast, our chances for a parking spot were seeming slim as each state park we passed had signs at the entrance stating “parking lot full.” To our surprise though the parking lot wasn’t busy as we finally pulled in. I couldn’t believe our luck only to find out a moment later that they were doing maintenance on the trail and you could not access the falls. I was so disappointed. We had driven all that way and we weren’t going to get to see the falls. But then we discovered you could actually still see them from a view point just up the road. It wasn’t what we had thought but the fog had cleared and you had a perfect blue sky view of the falls cascading onto the beach, something I had never gotten to witness before.

As we made our way back from the falls, we let our adventurous spirits lead us a little and meandered down a road with giant eucalyptus trees canopying entrance. We discovered dozens of wooden cabins surrounded by ferns and a creek that ran alongside them. It felt peaceful and like we were back in the redwoods for a minute. We then found a trail alongside the hwy that led down to a beach. There were colorful succulents painting the rocky landscape and views of the winding coast in the distance. The bright blue waves crashed ferociously, sneaking their way up the beach every so often. We sat on the sand for a little and just watched them as they ebbed and flowed, getting excited when the really big ones barreled their way to shore. I think this was one of my favorite parts of the day. The older I get, the more healing water is for me. I just feel complete peace in its presence.

It was getting later and we knew our chances of catching a sunset were not happening with the clouds still covering the sky. We reluctantly decided to get up and make our way back to the car and find a place to eat before heading home. We decided on a local pub in Carmel called Brophy’s Tavern. We ate some comfort food as the chill set into the evening and conversed with the waitress about all of the Bassett hounds we had seen that day and if it was normal for people to own them there. She told us that the town puts on dates for dogs all the time where everyone who owns that specific breed of dog comes and they do a beach play date and have food for the dogs and their owners. Their biggest event is a poodle parade that happens yearly. Such a quirky thing that feels fitting for this little town.

Shortly after, we settled into our car and waved goodbye to the ocean behind us as we headed towards home; not ready to leave but feeling a little more of the peace I was in need of and memories that will last forever.